Xian is one of our core coaches at Women’s Climbing Symposium events. She has a brilliant understanding of climbing and a gift for teaching others. Naturally, we are really excited to see her new book ‘Smooth’ on climbing movement hitting the shelves!
Here’s our take on Smooth from Esther Foster. Esther is one of our WCS directors, and is a climbing coach and instructor based in the Lake District.
Smooth is one of very few climbing technique books out there, and is already one of the books I know I will refer to again and again. It’s incredibly applicable, insightful and well researched, and it’s clear that Xian has thought really carefully about what we actually do when we climb, and how best to communicate that to others.
One of my favourite things about this book is that it is refreshing.
Xian highlights core principles and patterns in climbing which apply to climbers of all abilities, all body types, and are true across all disciplines. She explains climbing movement in a unique way, focusing on patterns of movement and what she terms ‘stable’ or ‘move’ phases, rather than as traditionally isolated techniques.
Rather than this becoming vague or bogged down in theory, Xian has managed to explain movement patterns clearly and concisely, always helping her reader to visualise exactly what she means. Many of her observations and explanations will make you think ‘ah, I never thought about it like that’, or ‘I didn’t realise but that’s exactly what I do!’.
As a coach myself, I particularly like that Xian challenges some of the overly simplistic, catch-all advice we hear such as ‘climbing is all about your legs’, or ‘don’t pull up with your arms’, and instead helps us to understand what moving well actually means and feels like, and crucially, how to get there.
Xian starts at the very beginning. She refuses to skip ahead to more exciting or flashy movement, and starts at the very beginning for every skill. Although this may mean that more experienced climbers think ‘well, this is kind of obvious’ at times, it is brilliant for making us aware of the things we don’t realise we do (or don’t do!), helping us to build up skills step-by-step, and recognising how we can help others to improve.
Xian challenges her readers, without being patronising. She talks in a way which engages beginner and experienced climbers alike, and it’s clear that although she’s a high level climber, she can really put herself in the shoes of those new to the sport.
Who is it for?
This book is a must for anyone interested in climbing movement. Whilst it mainly focusses on the more foundational techniques for climbing, experienced climbers will still find it useful and there will be many aspects to climbing movement that refines or builds on their current knowledge. Although the photos and exercises emphasise indoor climbing, the descriptions, movement principles and techniques are very much applicable to outdoor sport, trad and bouldering.
All in all, we would highly recommend this book to others, and can’t wait to have Xian join us as a coach for the next Women’s Climbing Symposium!
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Xian Goh will be coaching at WCS25 at The Climbing Hangar, Sheffield on 8th March 2025. Tickets available soon.
Smooth is available from Amazon.
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