WCS22 is just around the corner.
To help you plan your WCS22 weekend in Exeter we chatted to three local members of the women's climbing community for the beta on where to stay, climb, get a brew... all the most important things of course!
In the second of our series, WCS22 climbing coach Tori Taylor Roberts kicks us off with her recommendations for Exeter and Dartmoor.
TORI
TAYLOR-ROBERTS
South DArtmoor
climbing Coach
at west country adventures & the life centre climbing wall
LOGISTICS:
Eat:
The Riverford Field Kitchen. There's no menu, all organic, you just get given from what has been picked from the fields - plus there's local wine from Sharpham available.
Stay:
Hotel Du Vin, Exeter. Walking distance to The Climbing Hangar, Exeter and in the middle of the city. For people wanting to explore further afield The Bull Inn, Totnes is also a great place for a treat.
A post WCS drink:
Topsham Brewery is the weather is nice - fairy lights and local beers. Anywhere else on the Quay is also perfect as it's within walking distance from The Climbing Hangar, Exeter.
CLIMBING:
Sport:
Ansteys Cove. It's great. Ranging from 30m of 6a climbs like Sunshine through to classic lines like Empire of the sun. Take your swimmers and enjoy a dip too! Theres even the Long Traverse if the tides are right and you fancy exploring.
Trad:
1. Greator. Fab range of short routes from Diff to early E grades. Plus theres a nice coffee van at the Hound Tor carpark!
2. Telegraph Hole, Torbay. Great slab routes ranging from S to E4, including Flash Dance.
3. Lowman, Haytor. Some single and multi-pitch routes showcasing Dartmoor's rough granite.
4. Ansteys Cove. Yep - for trad - you heard it! Theres a handful of lovely routes that take you through some sharp limestone in a gorgeous setting.
Bouldering:
1.Go get lost in Bovey woods and find some gems.
2. Beesands. Great handful of boulder problems - it is tidal though.
3. Bonehill. The ultimate classic for accessible Dartmoor granite. 30 second walk from the parking and a range of low level problems.
IN CASE OF WET WEATHER:
Gear shops:
These are limited in the Exeter area, but:
Taunton Leisure is one of the few shops that stocks climbing gear in the south west.
Banana Fingers in Bristol is great for shoes if anyone is passing and wants to hit 2 walls up over the weekend!
Walls:
You can also check out the The Climbing Hangar, Plymouth for more bouldering. The Barn, Milton Abbet is an old school climbers wall with homemade holds, top out boulder island, and a lead wall designed to mimic Anstey's Cove for training!
Places to get a brew:
Totnes has an array of coffee shops which is impressive; every Friday there is a market with coffee, food and local stalls. In Exeter, Boatyard Café and Bakery have some great beans and patisseries - all made on side and everything tends to sell out fast!
DON'T MISS:
Hire a bike, canoe, or just walk along the Exeter Canal toward Starcross. It's a lovely stretch of canal with the Double Locks and The Turf for food and/or drinks. You can get a train back from Starcross or walk back.
If you fancy a climb, head onto the moors for bouldering with a pad. Bone Hill and Hound Tor are 2 classic spots within easy distance from the car park.
The Corn Exchange has some great gigs and events in the evenings, including Joanna McNally (stand up comedian) on November 12th,
If you like a little outdoor swimming there's plenty of options - from sea swimming to river dipping on the Dart.
Thank you so much Tori! Keep an eye out for future #ExeterBeta articles - and say hi to Tori when you see her at WCS22!
Tori is also the owner of West Country Adventures and runs bespoke guiding and climbing coaching in the south west. Check them out here!
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